Material Focus: Deep Navy Twill April 12 2017
The Deep Navy Twill is a fabric we’ve admired for years, unable to find the right time for a proper introduction – up until now. A heavily structured twill canvas offered in that deep navy color that only the Italians seem to get right.
Twill is an ancient weaving technique used to produce durable fabrics that have characteristically diagonal patterns called "wales." The Deep Navy Twill isn't the first twill woven fabric we’ve used over the years, but it’s the first one where the diagonal weaving is presented so deep and clear.
To better understand the beauty of the wales, we will try to enlighten you a little on the twill weaving technique. Woven fabrics in their basic principle are made up of a weft – the yarn that goes across the total width of the fabric horizontally and the warp – the other yarn that goes across the length of the fabric vertically. In that way the two yarns are interlocked. The side of the fabric creates and edge by the horizontal wefts loop, also called the selvedge, illustrated on the left side in the image below.
On a twill fabric, the two yarns aren't crossing evenly. The crossing of the horizontal weft yarn and the vertical warp yarn are offset. This offset presents a diagonal pattern on the surface of the fabric made out of the vertical wefts. The twill technique makes the fabric extra strong and gives it a beautiful draping. That's why it's used for both jeans and curtains.
The Deep Navy Twill looks nothing like jeans, as this weave has an increased offset, thus overlapping more horizontal yarn to create wales that are thicker and more tactile.
It can be seen as an over dimensioned twill with its thick diagonal lines. It gives the fabric more structure, and certainly a more prominent tactility. The deep structure of the fabric is very interesting because when it catches light you will see much more variations in the blue tones because of the heavily structured diagonal lines.
A fabric like this isn't common amongst bags but it signals someone that chooses their bag with great care and has an eye for tactile details and an appreciation for the rarer, more delicate things in life.
One might say the Deep Navy Twill sits naturally in our Legacy Collection as it benefits from a weaving technique dating more than 5000 years back. But it’s the classic mien of the navy cotton canvas paired with the warm cuoio bridle leather enhanced by the golden glow of the brass accessories that wraps this one up and firmly establish this combination as a Mismo perennial. It’s not the first and definitely not the last time a deep navy canvas gets to be paired with a tan coloured bridle leather in the Mismo universe.
The Legacy Collection revolves around natural materials that age with beauty. The Deep Navy Twill is a 91% cotton canvas with 9% PU (polyurethane) made up by an anti-fray backing and our water repellent surface treatment. It’s an article that will develop in usage and show the passage of time through an individual patina.