A Closer Look: The Passage Jacquard April 02 2017
As always, a new season marks the introduction of novel and exciting custom developed fabrics. This season we’re introducing the Passage Jacquard in Indigo & Khaki. The jacquard weaving technique can create exceptional tactility and that’s a path we’re always keen on exploring.
The definition of Passage derives from the choices you make. Everyone makes and creates their own path in the products they pick thus paving their own individual way. The whole Spring/Summer 17 collection follows this mindset, that you are the decisions you make and that you should go cherry picking in the collection to exemplify your own unique style.
As the hallmark for the collection and this mindset, Passage is the illustration of choices made - created in the pattern of arrows. The arrows signify the directions and decisions made, an infinity of possibilities. When looking at the pattern, different people perceive the arrows as pointing in a certain direction hence combining the statement of passages (arrows) and individuality into a pattern.
The jacquard weaving technique is interesting because it’s the sign of true craftsmanship. Developing patterns for jacquard requires knowledge of weaving itself and deciding the up to 6 threads going in each direction of the weave. This often makes a jacquard become three-dimensional. When you are close up, it can be seen as a rolling landscape. It’s much easier to simply create a pattern and then printing it onto a canvas, but in the print lies less o fa challenge.
The uneven Passage jacquard weave is inspired by the Japanese boro weaving technique. The term boro comes from the Japanese boroboro, which means something repaired. This is because hemp was more common in Japan than cotton, and they would weave the hemp together in multiple layers for more warmth. The boro weave therefore was uneven and had a ”bumpy” look. The technique strongly relates to the Japanese wabi sabi aesthetics, which is centered on the beauty and appreciation of imperfections. The Passage material is by no means imperfect, but it rests upon the philosophy of something repaired. Repairs are always individual and thus it represents the individuality in the collections mindset.
The Passage is a cotton jacquard at the lighter end of our spectrum at 556 grams per meter. It’s composed of 90% cotton with an added 10% polyurethane (PU) to give further strength to the fabric and to have water repellency treatment to the top. The khaki colour is paired with black bridle leather for a more dramatic contrast giving it a natural place in the Expression Collection, whereas the indigo colour is matched with dark brown bridle leather for a classic look suitable for the Appearance Collection. Both colour combinations feature brass hardware with varnish protection.